Living Threads: Cloth, Dress and Identity through Mexican History

Woman's gala ensemble. Tehuana culture. Juchitán de Zaragoza, State of Oaxaca, Mexico. c. 2000. 2014.40.1.1-2 (bodice and skirt). Gift of the Textile Endowment Fund Committee and 2015.24.1 (huipil grande or lace headdress). Gift of Gilberto Martinez Fabián, Tehuantepec.

About the Project

Sayer’s 2013 tenure as a Gervers’ fellow was largely spent investigating the ROM’s collection of Tehuana clothing, from the Isthmus of Tbhuantepec in Mexico, including the unique and flamboyant embroidered gala outfits of the local Zapotec women, recent additions to the collection. Clothing from this region is unique for its blend of Mexico’s two distinct textile traditions: that of pre-Conquest, indigenous dyes, weaves, embroidery, and feather work, and post-Conquest, European construction techniques, materials, and garment styles. Sayers traces the origin of this regional textile and garment history through the first half of the twentieth century, when it became a point of national identity and cultural pride, famously adopted by artist Frida Kahlo, up to the present day, where is still worn by Zapotec women on special occasions.

This, along with her 2010 fellowship, contributed greatly to the exhibit ¡Viva México! Clothing & Culture, which was shown at the ROM May 2015 to May 2016.