Fancy Footwork

The quillworked moccasins shown here were made in the early 20th century by Jenny Duck Chief, a Blackfoot woman from southern Alberta. They bear the image of the mythical Thunder Bird. According to the Blackfoot, the powerful Thunder Spirit gave the first porcupine to their ancestors and taught them how to work its quills into pleasing designs. The Blackfoot considered the act of quillworking to be sacred, the preserve of a relatively small number of women who were initiated into the rituals and knowledge of that art before acquiring the right to practice it. The delicate designs were embroidered with colourfully dyed, 5-centimetre-long quills of the North American porcupine, Erethizon dorsatum.

Traditions surrounding the use of porcupine quills would change. In North America glass beads slowly came to be used instead of quills. By the early 20th century, quillworking and its attendant customs had all but disappeared among the Blackfoot.

Jenny made these moccasins to wear herself on her wedding day. She married John Duck Chief, the eldest son of a head chief who would later come to occupy that position. Primarily known as a beadworker, on this occasion Jenny momentarily chose to revive the ancient art of porcupine quill embroidery.

Arni Brownstone is Assistant Curator in the Department of Art & Culture at ROM.